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Adelaide - the garden city

ON A HOT summer's day in 1836, a man with a vision stood on a small hill in still largely unexplored countryside and mapped out the heart of a new city. His vision called for a central area, measuring precisely 1 square mile, encircled by parklands.
He saw wide avenues bisecting at right angles and five city squares would be artistic gardens.
Today, on that same spot, a statue of that same man, Colonel William Light, surveys the masterpiece he planned - Adelaide, capital of South Australia.
Flying into Adelaide for the first time, you'll be struck by the surrounding greenness. South Australians love trees - in fact anything that grows - and they plant like a people possessed. It makes Adelaide a pleasure for jaded eyes, and it's a direct result of Light's splendid plan.
Thanks to grid of streets and squares Light imposed, Adelaide is perfect for walking. It takes just an hour to traverse the city from end to end. Begin anywhere, and your walk quickly becomes a walk through another time. Many of Adelaide's fine Victorian and Edwardian buildings remain. Of particular interest are the Treasury Building (1839), the General Post Office (1867) and the Town Hall (1863) - all near the geographical centre of the city.
But the greatest concentration of grand edifices is on North Terrace, Adelaide's tree-lined cultural boulevard. Here, in less than a mile, are architectural treasures such as the marble colonnaded Parliament House, the Art Gallery with its fine collection of Australian and European art, the State Library, Holy Trinity Church (the oldest Anglican church in the state) and Ayers House, a superb Victorian mansion, the former residence of Sir Henry Ayers, five times premier of South Australia.
And an entire day can easily be devoted to the South Australian Museum. A landmark on North Terrace, this treasure trove houses a world class collection of Aboriginal artefacts, Melanesian art and culture.
Just beyond North Terrace is part of what is probably the most important component of Light's vision. The fine parklands which still completely surround Adelaide are year-round attractions. The River Torrens flows through the green belt and curves round the northern edge of the city, providing a scenic addition to the capital's well-maintained lawns, gardens and parklands. Small paddle boats and one of Adelaide's oldest institutions, a covered motor launch called Popeye, vie for water-space.
Adelaide and most of the coastal belt surrounding it is blessed with a Mediterranean climate - the city has roughly the same latitude as Malta and the Greek Islands. So your chances of finding incredibly azure blue skies and balmy days are high, whatever time of year you come. Winters are generally mild, snow almost unheard of.
Adelaide has a wonderful sense of spaciousness. With it, comes freedom, a room to move - and the ability to do things on the spur of the moment. Want to go to the beach? You can be there in less than half an hour. What about some verdant hills scenery? The same. No traffic problems, no queues.
But while Adelaide might be noted for its tranquil temperament, visitors shouldn't be, deceived. If you like the finer things in life - wining, dining, dancing and entertainment Adelaide will give you the time of your life. Everywhere, from downtown Hindley Street to upmarket North Adelaide, you'll find clubs, discos, pubs, piano bars and cabarets.
There are also a variety of indoor and al fresco restaurants catering to all tastes and budgets. There are chic establishments specialising in French and German cuisines, Indian, Chinese, Malay, Lebanese, Greek, Italian, Vietnamese and Thai restaurants. And for the adventurous, there's always the sublime Adelaide food experience, the 'pie floater' - a meat pie swimming in a pool of pea soup (an acquired taste).
You'll find a pie cart outside the old railway station, now Adelaide's elegant two storied Casino. A substantial injection of funds and an innovative plan transformed the decaying terminal into a magnificent gambling complex that draws clients from Asia and Europe. The building's ambience, its palatial marble hall, stunning crystal chandeliers, smoked glass and antique wood panelling put most European casinos to shame.
In the beautiful Adelaide Hills, just a 20 minute drive from the city, you'll find a dual country view - the lovely English style gardens and beyond them, Australian bush.
The Hills are the weekend escape for thousands of Adelaide's people. Just 15 minutes away, the hills bring the feel of the real South Australia to life. An excursion of a few hours', driving through gum-covered valleys, steep hills, tiny villages, wildlife sanctuaries, apple and pear orchards, with stops for coffee or lunch at one of the many tea-houses and hostelries will leave your senses sated for months.

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